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Pattern Review – McCalls 5975 OOP Dress

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5975Pattern Description: MISSES’/MISS PETITE DRESSES AND BELT: Close-fitting dresses A, B, C, D, E with waistline seam, neckline variations, back zipper closing and mid-knee lengths; dress A is sleeveless; dress B has cap sleeves with pleats; dresses C, D have three-quarter length sleeves; dress E has long sleeves; dresses C, D, E have tie belt. I made View C, the cowl neck version

Sizing: 8-24. I made a Size 12, tapering to a size 14 at the waist/hips.

Fabric Used: Lace Impressions Rayon Panel Jersey – Gray/Ivory from Gorgeous Fabrics.

Machine(s) Used: Pfaff 2130, Janome home serger

Needle/Notions Used: Stretch 75/10 needle. Pro-Sheer interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply. Gütterman thread color 102 gray. Maxi-Lock ivory cone thread.

Tips Used during Construction: Anything by the Pressinatrix, Sew from Wide to Narrow, Tutorial on Flat-setting a Sleeve, Tricksy Fabrics.

Did it look like the photo or drawing when you got through? Yes

How were the instructions? I didn’t use them, since this goes together easily. They look pretty good.

Construction Notes: I did an FBA:

I cut the adjusted pattern piece onto muslin

I cut the adjusted front bodice on muslin first, so I would have a complete pattern piece. I did that so I could control the placement of the pattern piece precisely, like in the video. I spent a lot of time matching the vertical and horizontal motifs on the fabric. I didn’t get everything I wanted on the back, but it will do.

I omitted the zipper. With the open cowl neckline and a stretchy knit, there really isn’t need for one. Had I realized in advance that I was going to do that, I would have joined the back bodice and skirt to make a single piece. If I do it again, I’ll make that change. I also cut the back neck facing on the fold, eliminating the seam allowance (and the bulk that it would bring).

The fabric I used is a panel print that has a lacy trompe l’oeil effect. It also has scallops at the ends of the panels. I decided to use that at the hems, and I carefully cut along the scallops on the skirt and sleeve hemlines.

This fabric doesn’t run so I left the edges raw.

Same effect on the sleeve hems

Likes/Dislikes: I wanted something that would highlight this fabric nicely, and I wanted to try to use some of my pattern stash up. This has been sitting in my stash for a couple of years and it fit the bill. No real dislikes.

Would you do it again? Would you recommend it? I probably won’t do it again. But I do like this pattern and I do recommend it.

Conclusion: A good, basic pattern. Here are some shots on Shelley, both plain and styled the way I am thinking of wearing it to dinner in Paris. (!!!!)

Front

Back

Styled with a cashmere sweater and patent pumps. Bateau Mouche, here I come!

Happy sewing!


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